I bought a spare compressor assembled by an acquaintance that includes a K-A 331TV rebuilt pump. This model pump is typically used with a 5Hp motor, but said assembler only had a 36A/7.5HP motor on hand so he used that instead. So far, good for me. Question: how fast can you turn these pumps? I have found indications on the net that under a 5HP motor, the 331TV typically is set up for 590 to 560rpm depending on max operating pressure. 10 HP Kellogg American Cast Iron Air Compressor Pump K-452. 4 Cylinder, V Configuration. Operating RPM: 590 – 800 RPM. Mount hole spacing is. 10.5 from the left mounting holes to the right mounting holes. 6.25 from the front mounting holes to the back mounting holes. Kellogg-American air compressors are highly regarded. I can pull the motor off my other compressor maybe cause the cfm are to low but its a. One reference indicates rpms up to about 670 are possible. Other makers, such as IR often spin similar sized pumps up to over 1,000rpm (IRT30 10HP, e.g.) Any first hand experience out there? Any idea If setting this up for 750rpm is a recipe for disaster? Are the valves a limiting factor? This will not be the primary shop compressor. It is a spare in case my 5HP T30 ever goes down, and the K-A will be used as primary air for the blast cabinet; with the IR supplementing. I probably use the blast cabinet or the outdoor pressure pot blaster less than 30Hrs/year. J.- Thanks, that is one of the pages i was using. Just wondered if there is a rule of thumb or anything like that when exceeding 'manufacturer's typical rpm settings' But as you point out, they all seem to be doing it these days themselves. This is a bigger pump (displacement) than IR's 10HP unit which runs at 1040 rpm. Course the IR has a shorter stroke. I did move down the chart to the K-A 340TV pumps, which are made for 7.5HP. They have the same stroke, bigger bore, and run faster as well. I am leaning toward setting the sheave ratio to give 725rpm & the cut out at about 135PSI, and just see how it does. Should still be overpowered, but better than the other way. Since this will not be run daily, I'm not going to worry about extreme longevity issues. OTOH There is probably an rpm where one gets diminishing returns (or possibly negative) where the valves and ports can't keep up. But I have no idea whatsoever how to guesstimate that one. J Hendricksen, thanks for that important bit of information about the valves. Wonder if this a case where it might be prudent to take the head off and loctite or stake the parts in question? Harris was not very helpful, in fact they were probably trying to blow me off. Long story, but sort of short version is that the guy said (words to the effect)'So all you want is a couple filters and you want to know how fast the pump should run?!?' Then he said, OK, hold on a minute. After a longish hold, I was funneled into the messaging system repeatedly. On a couple call backs, different versions of the same thing happened. Mentioned by J Carlson dropped the ball initially, but were apologetic and very helpful. Had the filters in stock and advised about the same as you guys 'don't run it any faster than you would for 5HP' According to their site, that would be a max of around 670 rpm. Even though the 340TV which is just a bigger bore version of the same stroke pump is good to 725rpm. The Kellog 331 series has valves that are inserted and retained from the bottom of the head. I've seen 3 that have had the threaded keepers come out and wreck the head and piston. I would be wary of running one of these overspeed whatever that is. Harris Equipment in Melrose Park, Il services and stocks parts for AKellogs. They might be able to give you better info. Dolphin compatible gamecube roms. Download Nintendo Gamecube ISO games, but first download an emulator to play Nintendo Gamecube ROMS. 1967 impala ss parts. 708 343 0866I just pulled the head on my 331TV this morning and all the valves are threaded into the head and so no danger of this one spitting parts other than two broken springs on the poppet valves and some crude the is not sign of wear in the cylinder walls whatsoever the flare was cracked about 2/3 of the way around on one of the finned cooler pipes up where the flare nut attaches to the head and would have been leaking air there for certain here is the serial number, b 333 269 anyone know where I can translate that to a date of manufacture? I am reasonably certain it is no younger than 1967 thx. I believe the 331TV is a splash oiled compressor, and utilizes a mechanical unloader. As such I think you would be risking destroying the bearings and unloader by running it faster than the rated RPM.
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